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The Abandoned
Air Base

Story 01/01

In the rural town of Vaerlose, Denmark, lies a closed military air base. Now owned by the Danish Nature Agency, the area has been transformed into a public recreational area. At its centre lies a 3 km long runway from which several other long paved stretches are accessible. No wonder the area has become a mecca for everyone on wheels. Known by cyclists as a hidden gem, the air base is also home to a yearly 24H charity race called “The Tour of Hearts”. With the prospect of racing down the airstrips for a potential ‘take-off’, we could not resist paying this wonderland a visit. Arriving at the location, we immediately noticed the distinctive road surface consisting of patches of coarse asphalt and concrete marked with enormous arrows.

The sky was clear, and when looking to the horizon, the runway seemed like a never-ending road. Except for a few riders on time trial bikes, we had the air base to ourselves. We began our ride on a winding road flanked by helicopter airfields, the road leading to the main runway. Once there, we agreed to a small race to the very end of the runway. With a strong headwind in our faces, we grinded our way through heavier and heavier gears. Closing in on the finish line, the race turned into a flat-out sprint. Unknown to us, a stretch of pavement with troublesome vegetation was lying ahead. The vegetation had been allowed to grow to a height which could have sent us tailspinning, but luckily, we were quick to hit our brakes.

After the adrenaline rush it was time for a well-deserved break. We slowly rode back towards the other end of the air base through a network of roads that branched off the main runway. Lining the roads were several antique aircraft shelters. They were characterized by triangular doors and bulky rectangular ventilation shafts cast in concrete. Now overgrown, their once ominous presence had utterly faded. So much so, in fact, that someone had gotten the idea of turning one of the shelters into a small café. The name sign of the café read “Shelter 214”, corresponding to the shelter’s original number. Of course, we had to try their food. We parked our bikes on a saddle stand right outside of the café, kind of like the skis outside of an Après ski bar. The café was an oasis in the asphalt desert, attracting a wealth of different customers, including members of the local model aircraft association, parents out for a walk with their babies and strollers, and just about every kind of cyclist. The style of the café was simple yet cozy, and the atmosphere was hip. After taking our orders, the owner was kind to share the story of the place with us. The café recently celebrated its second birthday and has seen a steady growth in the number of visitors. The owner was seasoned mountain biker turned gravel rider, who also happened to be a barista. Their caffe latte was excellent and their sandwich with Jarlsberg cheese was a much-needed delight after the sprint down the airstrip. We sat outside the café in loungers, sheltered from the wind, enjoying the food and the sun.After refueling, it was time to head back home. The air base had been a joyful experience, and we will definitely have to come back another time to break our speed records or just to enjoy a great cup of coffee and a few rays of sunlight.Catherine & Jonathan, 6 April 2023